The Complete History of Yves Saint Laurent (YSL): Le Smoking, Opium, & Beauty Line story

The Complete History of Yves Saint Laurent (YSL): Founder, Principles, and “Le Smoking”

Yves Saint Laurent (YSL)—known today as Saint Laurent Paris—is undoubtedly one of the most influential luxury fashion houses of the 20th century. This French brand not only reshaped the aesthetics of design but also redefined women’s empowerment and modern dressing styles. To truly understand its legacy, one must follow the extraordinary journey of its revolutionary founder—from colonial Algeria to becoming Dior’s youngest head designer, and finally, the creator of a fashion empire bearing his own name.
[Source: Kering History]

Biography of Yves Saint Laurent: A Young Genius is Born

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint Laurent was born on August 1, 1936, in Oran, French Algeria, to a well-off family. From an early age, he showed a strong interest in costume and theater design. At 17, he moved to Paris, and after winning an international fashion design contest, he caught the attention of Christian Dior.
When Dior died suddenly in 1957, Saint Laurent—only 21 years old—was appointed as the head designer of the House of Dior. However, after a stressful and brief period of military service in 1960, he was forced to leave Dior.
[Sources: Britannica Biography, BPL]

Founding the Brand and Revolutionizing Ready-to-Wear

Saint Laurent’s departure from Dior paved the way for the birth of his own brand. With the support of his life and business partner Pierre Bergé, he founded the Yves Saint Laurent fashion house in 1961. He quickly became one of the most influential figures in Parisian fashion.
His most groundbreaking move came in 1966 with the opening of “Rive Gauche,” the first luxury ready-to-wear boutique. This innovation democratized haute couture, making high fashion accessible to a wider audience of modern women.
[Source: Kering History]

The Brand’s Core Philosophy: A Symbol of Feminine Freedom

The guiding principles of Yves Saint Laurent’s work have always centered on freedom, empowerment, and defiance of convention. He turned traditional menswear into a symbol of confidence for women.

The Creation of “Le Smoking”: Breaking Gender Boundaries

Perhaps his most iconic innovation was the introduction of the female tuxedo suit—“Le Smoking”—in 1966. Inspired by the male tuxedo, the design was initially scandalous; some upscale restaurants even banned women wearing it. Yet, it quickly became a symbol of boldness and female empowerment. Over the course of his career, Saint Laurent created more than 200 versions of “Le Smoking,” transforming it into the uniform of the liberated woman.
[Sources: Harper’s Bazaar, UHNW Magazine, TEYXO Style]

Other Signature Innovations

The Safari Jacket – turning utilitarian wear into luxury fashion
Women’s Trousers for All Occasions – promoting equality in everyday style
Diversity on the Runway – among the first designers to feature Black and nonwhite models prominently
Art-Inspired Collections, such as the famous Mondrian Collection blending couture and modern art
[Sources: UHNW Magazine, Britannica Biography, Medium]

Entering the World of Beauty and Fragrance: Building a Sensory Legacy

Beyond fashion, Yves Saint Laurent expanded into perfume and beauty, adding a tactile and emotional dimension to the brand’s identity.

Perfume: Controversy and Global Success

YSL’s first fragrance, “Y”, launched in 1964, paving the way for some of the most iconic scents in fashion history. In 1977, the house introduced “Opium”, a name that shocked the public for its provocative reference to the East and narcotics. Despite controversy, Opium became a global best-seller and cemented YSL’s reputation as a fearless innovator.
[Source: Independent UK]

The Rise of YSL Beauty

Saint Laurent’s mission to democratize beauty extended to makeup. In 1978, he launched YSL Beauté, emphasizing luxury packaging and vibrant color palettes. One of its most legendary products, the Touche Éclat highlighter (introduced in 1992), remains one of the world’s best-selling beauty items.
Today, YSL Beauty operates under license by L’Oréal Group, representing a major share of the brand’s global presence and revenue.
[Sources: Brandwick YSL, L’Oréal Group]

Legacy and the Modern Era

Yves Saint Laurent retired in 2002 and passed away six years later, leaving behind a lasting cultural and artistic impact. The fashion house is now owned by the Kering Group and continues to operate under the name Saint Laurent Paris.
Creative directors such as Hedi Slimane and Anthony Vaccarello have preserved the spirit of Saint Laurent—youth, freedom, and modernity—for the 21st century, while the fragrance and beauty divisions continue to expand the brand’s global influence.
[Sources: Britannica Biography, Scribd Presentation, Yellowbrick]